How to Line a Cloak or Cape (Beginner Sewing Guide)
To line a cape or cloak, cut a second copy of the cloak from lining fabric using the same pattern, place the two layers right sides together, and stitch all the way around the edges, leaving a gap of about 8 inches (20 cm). Turn the cloak right side out through the gap, press the edges flat, and close the gap with small hand stitches or a line of topstitching. This method is called "bagging" a lining, and it hides every seam without a single hem.
On a simple cape it is often quicker than hemming, because one seam finishes every edge. Below: the bagging method, then hooded, circle and reversible cloaks. If you have not cut your cloak yet, start with our guide on sewing a cloak without a pattern and come back here before you hem anything.
What You Need
- Your outer cloak or cape pieces, cut but not hemmed
- Lining fabric: the same amount as the outer fabric
- Pins or sewing clips (clips are kinder to satin)
- Fabric scissors and matching thread for both fabrics
- A sewing machine with a fresh universal or microtex needle
- An iron, a pressing cloth and a large table or clean floor
- Optional: fusible interfacing for the neckline and hand-sewing needle for the gap
Choosing a Lining Fabric
A good lining is lighter than the outer fabric, does not fray too badly and has the same care instructions as the cloak. Use this table to match the lining to the job.
| Lining | Feel | Ease of sewing | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester lining fabric | Smooth, slides over clothes | Medium; slippery | Velvet and wool cloaks, coats worn over costumes |
| Satin | Shiny, slippery | Hard; frays and slides | Vampire and villain capes, contrast hoods |
| Quilting cotton | Crisp, breathable | Easy | Children's capes, first-time projects |
| Cotton flannel | Soft, warm | Easy | Winter cloaks and outdoor events |
| Thin fleece | Warm, bulky | Easy; does not fray | Cosy cloaks for trick-or-treating in the cold |
Our guide to the best fabric for a cloak or cape compares outer fabrics in more detail. One rule matters more than the rest: wash and dry both fabrics before cutting, the way you will wash the finished cloak. Two fabrics that shrink by different amounts will pucker after the first wash.
Step 1: Cut the Lining
Cut the lining from exactly the same pattern as the outer cloak, so both layers match edge to edge.
- Lay the outer cloak piece on the lining fabric, right sides facing the same way, and pin it in place.
- Cut around it. If the lining is very slippery, lay it on a cotton sheet or a cutting mat so it does not shift while you cut.
- If your cloak has seams (for example two back panels), sew the same seams in the lining and press them open.
Step 2: Let Circle Cloaks Hang First
If your cloak is a half or full circle, hang both layers for a day before you sew them together.
Much of a circle cloak's edge runs on the bias (diagonally across the weave), and bias edges stretch downwards under their own weight. The two layers rarely stretch by the same amount. Hang each layer from its neckline on a hanger or a door for 24 hours, then lay them together again and trim the hems level. Our comparison of quarter, half and full circle cloaks explains which shapes are most affected.
Step 3: Sew the Two Layers Together
Place the outer fabric and the lining right sides together and stitch around every edge except the neckline gap or turning gap.
- Lay the outer cloak right side up, then lay the lining on top, right side down. Match the edges and pin or clip every 4 inches (10 cm), and closer on curves.
- Decide where to leave the turning gap. For a cape without a hood, leave about 8 inches (20 cm) open along the bottom hem, where it is least noticeable. For a hooded cloak, leave the whole neckline open instead (see Step 5).
- Stitch around the edges with a 1/2 inch (1 cm) seam allowance, starting and ending at the gap and backstitching at both ends.
Tip: Before turning, clip small notches into curved seam allowances (the neckline and rounded corners) and trim the corners at an angle. This lets the curves lie smooth instead of rippling once the cloak is turned out.
Step 4: Turn, Press and Close
Turn the cloak right side out through the gap, press the edges so the lining rolls slightly to the inside, and close the gap.
- Pull the whole cloak through the gap. Push corners out with a chopstick or the blunt end of a knitting needle.
- Roll the seam between your fingers so it sits exactly on the edge, or a hair towards the lining side, then press it with a pressing cloth. Steam velvet from the back instead.
- Fold the raw edges of the gap inwards and close them with a slip stitch (ladder stitch) by hand, or topstitch the whole edge.
- Optional: topstitch 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the edge all the way around. It keeps the lining from peeking out and gives a crisp finish.
Step 5: Lining a Hooded Cloak
For a hooded cloak, line the hood and the body separately, then join them at the neckline.
Sew the outer hood and the lining hood the way you would make the hood on its own, slip the lining inside the outer hood with right sides together, and stitch around the face opening. Turn it and press. Then line the cloak body as in Step 3, but leave the neckline open instead of a gap at the hem. Slip the finished hood between the outer fabric and the lining at the neck, matching centers, and stitch through all four layers. Our guides on how to make a hooded cloak and how to make a hood for a cloak cover cutting the hood itself.
Making the Cape Reversible
A bagged lining already makes a cape reversible if both fabrics look good: for example black on one side and red satin on the other. Use a closure that works either way round, and topstitch the edges so neither side rolls to the front. Our guide on how to fasten a cloak or cape shows closures that suit reversible capes.
Troubleshooting a Lined Cloak
- The lining peeks out at the edges: press the seam slightly towards the lining side and topstitch close to the edge.
- The lining hangs below the outer hem: the bias stretched after sewing. Unpick the hem section, let the cloak hang, then trim the lining 1/4 inch (6 mm) shorter and resew.
- The lining twists inside a long cloak: tack the two layers together at the shoulder seams or every few feet along the inside, with a few loose hand stitches.
- The neckline pulls downwards: add interfacing or a strip of twill tape inside the neck seam.
Safety Note
Many lining fabrics are polyester, which can melt as well as burn, so keep lined cloaks well away from candles, fire pits and jack-o'-lanterns. For young children, choose a closure that pulls apart easily instead of ties knotted at the throat.
Does a cape need a lining?
No. An unlined cape in a fabric that does not fray, such as felt or fleece, is perfectly fine for a costume. A lining is worth adding when the inside will be seen, for example on a swirling cape, when the outer fabric frays or itches, or when you want a reversible cape or a contrast color inside.
What is the easiest way to line a cape?
Bagging is the easiest. Cut the lining from the same pattern, sew it to the outer fabric right sides together around every edge, leave a small gap, turn the cape right side out, press and close the gap. One seam finishes every edge, so you never need to hem.
How much lining fabric do I need for a cloak?
The same amount as the outer fabric, because the lining is cut from the same pattern. Buy a little extra if the lining is slippery, since it is easy to cut off-grain.
Can I line a cloak without sewing?
You can glue felt or fleece layers together with fabric glue or fusible web, but slippery linings do not glue well and the edges can peel after washing. For a no-sew project, a single layer of fleece is usually better. See our no-sew cloak guide.
Lining is the step that turns a quick costume into a cloak you will want to keep. Pair it with a pointed hood, try it on a DIY wizard robe, or finish the neckline the way we show in sewing a hood onto a cape. Browse more costume accessory tutorials for your next project.
