How to Make a Pointed Hood (Elf, Gnome or Witch Hood)

To make a pointed hood, draft an ordinary hood shape from three head measurements, then stretch the top back corner upwards into a point before you cut. Cut two mirror-image pieces, sew them together along the top and back, hem the face opening and stitch the bottom edge to your cloak or a neck band. A short point gives a neat elf or monk look; a long, floppy point turns the same hood into a gnome, wizard or witch hood.
This guide builds on our tutorial on how to make a hood for a cloak or cape, which uses the same three measurements. The only real difference is the point, so most of the work here is about getting its size and angle right before you cut good fabric.
What You Need
- About half a yard (50 cm) of fabric for a child's hood, or up to a yard (1 m) for an adult hood with a long point
- Optional lining fabric, the same amount again
- A tape measure and tailor's chalk or a washable marker
- Newspaper or wrapping paper and tape for a mock-up
- Pins or clips, fabric scissors and matching thread
- A sewing machine, or a needle for hand sewing with backstitch
- Optional: a small bell, pom-pom or tassel for the tip
Pointed Hood Styles Compared
The size of the point decides the character. Use this table as a starting point, then adjust it on your paper mock-up.
| Style | Point | Best fabric | Works with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Elf or monk hood | Short, about 2–4 in (5–10 cm) above the head, sits upright | Felt, fleece, cotton drill | Short capes, tunics, Robin Hood style costumes |
| Witch or wizard hood | Medium, about 6–10 in (15–25 cm), bends over at the tip | Velvet, fleece, gabardine | Long cloaks and robes |
| Gnome hood | Long, 12 in (30 cm) or more, flops over or hangs down the back | Felt or fleece (no fraying, light enough to flop) | Gnome and dwarf costumes, winter hats |
| Grim reaper hood | Very slight point, mainly a deep front | Black cotton, polyester or a sheet | Full-length black cloaks |
Step 1: Take Three Measurements
A pointed hood starts with exactly the same measurements as a rounded one. Take them loosely, because a hood should drape rather than hug the head.
- Measurement A (height): drape the tape from the top of one shoulder, up the side of the head, to the top center of the head. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) for seam allowance.
- Measurement B (depth): measure from the forehead, over the top, to the back of the head. Add extra if you want the hood to shade the eyes, plus 1 inch for seam allowance.
- Measurement C (neck): measure loosely around the neck, halve it and add 1 inch.
Write the three numbers down. They are the same for every hood style, so you can reuse them for a rounded hood later.
Step 2: Draw the Hood and Add the Point
Draw a rectangle that is Measurement B wide and Measurement A tall, then curve the back and add the point at its top back corner.
- On paper, draw a rectangle B wide and A tall. The left edge is the face opening, the right edge is the back of the head, and the bottom edge is the neckline.
- Mark Measurement C along the bottom edge from the front corner. That is where the hood joins the neckline; curve the back line gently up from this mark.
- Now add the point: from the top back corner, extend the line upwards and slightly backwards by the point length you chose from the table. Join the tip to the top front edge with a smooth, gently curved line.
- Round the back curve so it flows from the neck into the point without a sharp angle, unless you want a stiff, upright elf point.
Tip: Tape two paper copies together along the top and back and try the mock-up on. A point always looks longer on the wearer than on the table, so trim the paper until you like it, then use the trimmed paper as your pattern.
Step 3: Cut Two Mirror Pieces
A pointed hood is made from two separate side pieces, because the seam has to run over the top of the head and up into the point.
- Fold your fabric in half with right sides together, so you cut a left and a right piece at the same time.
- Pin the paper pattern on top, with the grain running from the neckline up towards the point.
- Cut both layers together. If you want a lined hood, repeat with the lining fabric.
Step 4: Sew the Hood
Sew the two pieces together in one seam that runs from the front of the forehead, over the top, up to the tip and down the back to the neckline.
- Pin the pieces right sides together along the top and back edges. Leave the face opening and the neckline open.
- Stitch with a 1/2 inch (1 cm) seam allowance. At the tip, sew to the point, leave the needle down, turn the fabric and sew back out.
- Trim the seam allowance close to the tip and clip into the curves so the seam lies flat when turned.
- Turn the hood right side out and push the point out gently with a chopstick or a knitting needle, not scissors.
- Hem the face opening by folding it under twice and stitching. Fleece and felt do not fray, so you can leave them raw.
For a lined hood, sew the lining the same way, slip it inside the main hood with right sides together, stitch around the face opening, then turn and press. Treat both layers as one from here on.
Step 5: Attach the Hood
Attach the hood to a cloak by matching its bottom edge to the neckline, right sides together, and stitching around the curve.
Pin from the center back outwards, so any small difference in length ends up at the front where it is easy to hide. Our step-by-step guide to sewing a hood onto a cape shows how to finish the seam neatly. If the hood is for a costume without a cloak, sew it to a simple fabric band or a short capelet that sits on the shoulders, and close it at the front with a button or hook-and-loop tab.
Troubleshooting a Pointed Hood
- The point stands up when you wanted it to flop: the fabric is too stiff or the point too short. Lengthen it, or use a softer fleece.
- The point flops when you wanted it upright: use stiffened felt, or slip a strip of iron-on interfacing into the tip before you sew.
- The hood falls back off the head: a heavy point pulls it backwards. Shorten the point, deepen Measurement B, or add a closure lower on the chest.
- The tip looks bulky: trim the seam allowance closer to the stitching at the point before turning.
Safety Note
Keep long hoods and cloaks well away from candles and jack-o'-lanterns, and make sure a deep hood does not block the wearer's side vision when they walk outside in the dark. For young children, use a closure that pulls apart easily rather than ties around the neck.
How do you make a hood pointed?
Draw a normal hood shape, then extend the top back corner upwards into a point before cutting. Cut the hood as two mirror pieces rather than on a fold, so the seam can run over the head and into the tip. Sew that seam, trim the tip and turn it out with a blunt tool.
How long should the point on a hood be?
About 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) gives a neat elf or monk hood, 6–10 inches (15–25 cm) gives a witch or wizard hood that bends over, and 12 inches (30 cm) or more gives a floppy gnome hood. Always test the length in paper first.
Can I make a pointed hood without sewing?
Yes, if you use felt or fleece. Join the two pieces with fabric glue or iron-on hemming tape, leave the edges raw because they will not fray, and glue the hood to the cloak. Our no-sew cloak guide explains the glues and tapes that hold best.
Can I add a pointed hood to a cloak I already have?
Yes. Measure the cloak's neckline along the curve and use that number instead of Measurement C, so the hood edge matches the cloak exactly. Then draft, sew and attach the hood as above.
A pointed hood finishes a hooded cloak, a DIY wizard robe or a simple cloak sewn without a pattern. Not sure what to buy? See the best fabric for a cloak or cape, then add a homemade witch hat for a different look on another night. Browse more costume accessory tutorials for other ideas.