How to Make a Hooded Cloak (Step-by-Step Sewing Guide)
To make a hooded cloak, you sew two parts and join them: a half-circle body cut from one piece of fabric, and a two-piece hood whose bottom edge is exactly as long as the cloak's neckline. Measure the wearer, cut the body, sew the hood's back seam, pin the hood to the neckline with right sides together, stitch, then hem the edges and add a fastening at the throat. With a sewing machine it takes an afternoon.
This guide puts the whole project on one page, in the order you actually work, with the measurements that matter most: the neckline and the hood opening. If you only need one part, we also have separate tutorials on sewing a cloak without a pattern and making a hood for a cloak.
What You Need
- Fabric for the body and hood: about twice the cloak length plus 1 yard (1 m) of 58–60 inch (150 cm) wide fabric for an adult half-circle cloak
- Optional lining fabric for the hood, the same amount as the hood pieces
- A tape measure, tailor's chalk and a long ruler or yardstick
- A piece of string and a pencil to draw the curves
- Pins or clips, sharp fabric scissors and matching thread
- A sewing machine (or a needle for hand sewing with backstitch)
- A closure: two ribbons, a metal cloak clasp, a frog closure or a hook-and-loop tab
- Newspaper or wrapping paper for a hood mock-up
Step 1: Take Three Measurements
You need the cloak length, the neck size and the hood height before you cut anything.
- Length (L): measure from the base of the neck, over the shoulder, down to where the hem should fall. Ankle length suits wizards and vampires; knee length is easier for children and for walking up stairs.
- Neck (N): measure loosely around the base of the neck, where the cloak will sit, and add 2 inches (5 cm) so it does not choke.
- Hood height (H): measure from the base of the neck at the shoulder, up over the top of the head, to the same point on the other side, then halve it. This is the height of one hood piece.
Write the numbers down. For a child, the same three measurements work; the cloak simply comes out smaller.
Step 2: Cut the Half-Circle Cloak Body
The body is a half circle with a smaller half circle cut out for the neck, so it drapes evenly from the shoulders.
- Work out the neck radius: divide N by 3.14. For example, a 16 inch neckline gives a neck radius of about 5 inches.
- Fold the fabric in half crosswise (cut edge to cut edge) so the fold will run down the center back. Lay it flat on the floor. The fabric width limits how long the cloak can be: L plus the neck radius must fit across it, so 60 inch fabric suits most adults up to ankle length.
- Tie the string to the chalk, hold the other end at the folded corner and draw a quarter circle with the neck radius.
- Lengthen the string by L (plus 1 inch for the hem) and draw a second, larger quarter circle from the same corner.
- Cut along both curves through both layers. When you unfold it, you have a half circle with a curved neckline.
Want a fuller or lighter cloak? Our comparison of the best fabric for a cloak or cape explains how velvet, fleece, cotton and satin hang.
Step 3: Draft and Cut the Hood
A hood is two mirror-image pieces, each roughly a rectangle with one curved back corner.
- Measure the cloak's cut neckline along the curve. The bottom edge of the hood, once both pieces are sewn together, must match this length, minus a gap of 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) at the front if you want the hood to sit away from the throat.
- Draw a rectangle on paper: its height is H plus 1 inch, and its width is half the hood's bottom edge plus seam allowance.
- Round off the top back corner in a smooth curve, like the back of a head. Leave the front edge straight.
- Tape two paper pieces together along the curved back and try the mock-up on. Adjust until the front edge reaches the forehead without pulling at the neck.
- Use the paper as a pattern to cut two hood pieces from fabric (and two from lining, if you are lining the hood).
Step 4: Sew the Hood
Sew the curved back seam first, then finish the front edge before the hood goes anywhere near the cloak.
- Place the two hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the curved back seam with a 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance.
- Clip small notches into the curve so it lies flat when turned, then finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch.
- Fold the front edge under twice and stitch it down to make a neat hem. If you are lining the hood, sew the lining's back seam, place it inside the hood with right sides together, stitch along the front edge and turn it out instead.
Step 5: Attach the Hood to the Cloak
Pin the hood to the neckline with right sides together, matching centers first, then stitch.
- Find the center back of the cloak neckline (the fold line) and pin the hood's back seam to it.
- Pin the front corners of the hood to the neckline, the same distance in from each front edge of the cloak.
- Pin the rest in between, easing the fabric so it sits evenly without pleats.
- Stitch with a 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance and finish the seam with zigzag or a strip of bias binding so it does not scratch the neck.
Our photo tutorial on how to sew a hood onto a cape shows this step in more detail.
Step 6: Hem the Edges and Add a Fastening
Finish the front edges and the hem, then sew a closure at the throat.
- Fold the two straight front edges under twice and stitch them down.
- Hem the curved bottom edge with a narrow double fold. Pin closely, because a curve is easier to hem in small sections.
- Sew a closure to the neckline corners, reinforced with a small square of felt or interfacing on the inside. Our guide on how to fasten a cloak or cape compares ties, clasps and frog closures.
Troubleshooting a Hooded Cloak
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The hood pulls the cloak backwards | Hood too small or too heavy | Recut a larger hood, or add a closure that sits lower on the chest |
| Puckers where the hood joins the cloak | Hood edge longer than the neckline | Unpick, trim the hood edge to match, and pin from the center outwards |
| The neckline chokes | Neck radius too small | Trim a little more from the neck curve and re-finish the seam |
| The hem dips at the back | Fabric stretched on the bias | Hang the cloak for a day, then level the hem before stitching |
No-Sew and Hoodless Variations
Fleece and felt do not fray, so you can skip the hems and join the hood with fabric glue or iron-on hemming tape; see our no-sew cloak guide. For a hoodless cloak, leave out steps 3 to 5 and add a stand-up collar or a drawstring neckline instead.
Safety note: Keep ankle-length cloaks well away from candles and jack-o'-lanterns, and choose a closure that pulls apart easily for young children, such as a hook-and-loop tab, rather than ties around the neck.
How much fabric do I need for a hooded cloak?
For an adult ankle-length half-circle cloak in 58–60 inch fabric, plan on about twice the cloak length plus about one yard for the hood. Measure your own length first, because tall wearers and full-circle cloaks need more. Buying a little extra also lets you match a pattern or nap.
What is the best fabric for a hooded cloak?
Mid-weight fabrics that drape well are easiest: cotton drill, gabardine, fleece and costume velvet. Fleece is warm, cheap and does not fray. Satin and thin polyester are slippery to sew and can make the hood slide back, so beginners may prefer a fabric with a little grip.
Can I make a hooded cloak without a pattern?
Yes. Every piece on this page is drawn from your own measurements with a string compass and a ruler, so you never need a printed pattern. The only paper you need is for the hood mock-up, which helps you check the size before you cut good fabric.
How long does it take to sew a hooded cloak?
Most of the time goes into measuring, cutting and pinning. A beginner with a sewing machine can usually finish an unlined hooded cloak in an afternoon. Hand sewing works too, but allow a few evenings, and use a small backstitch for the hood seams so they hold.
Once the cloak is finished, add a homemade witch hat, a hot glue wizard wand or a witch broom prop to complete the costume. Browse more costume accessory tutorials for other ideas.
