Quarter, Half or Full Circle Cloak: Which Should You Make?

A quarter circle cloak is the slimmest and quickest of the three shapes: it hangs fairly straight down the back, uses the least fabric and is usually cut in one piece. A half circle cloak is the classic costume cloak, with soft folds and a nice swirl when you turn. A full circle cloak is the most dramatic, with deep folds, but needs about twice the fabric of a half circle, plus seams.

All three are drafted the same way, with a string compass and two measurements; only the neck curve and the slice of circle change. Below you'll find a comparison, the neck radius formula for each shape, worked examples and cutting layouts, so you can choose before you buy fabric.

Quick Comparison

The more of a circle you cut, the fuller the cloak and the more fabric it takes.

What You Need

• A tape measure and a calculator (a phone is fine)
• Fabric: see the worked examples below for how much each shape needs
• Tailor's chalk or a washable marker
• Non-stretchy string and a pin
• Sharp fabric scissors, pins or clips and matching thread
• A sewing machine or a needle for hand sewing (fleece and felt can be left unhemmed)
• A closure: ribbon ties, a cloak clasp or a hook-and-loop tab

Step 1: Take Two Measurements

Every circle cloak is drafted from the neck size and the length.

1. Neck (N): measure loosely around the base of the neck, where the cloak will sit, and add about 2 inches (5 cm) of ease so it does not pull against the throat.
2. Length (L): measure from the base of the neck, over the shoulder, to where you want the hem. Mid-calf is easier to walk in than ankle length.
3. Add about 1 inch (2.5 cm) to the length for the hem (skip this for raw-edged fleece or felt).

Step 2: Work Out the Neck Radius

The neck radius is the neckline divided by a different number for each shape, because a smaller slice of circle needs a larger curve to fit the same neck.

1. Quarter circle: neck radius = N ÷ 1.57
2. Half circle: neck radius = N ÷ 3.14
3. Full circle: neck radius = N ÷ 6.28
4. The outer radius is the neck radius plus the length (and hem allowance). This is the number that decides how much fabric you need.

The table below uses an 18 inch neckline (16 inches plus ease) and a 40 inch length plus 1 inch for the hem. Swap in your own numbers; the method is the same.

The hem column shows why they look so different: the full circle has over three times the hem of the quarter circle. Buy a little extra for straightening the ends and for a hood.

Step 3: Cut Your Chosen Shape

Draw every curve from one corner with a string compass: pin one end of the string at the corner and swing the chalk in an arc.

Quarter circle cloak

1. Lay the fabric flat, single layer. The outer radius must fit across the fabric width, so a quarter circle in 58–60 inch fabric works for outer radii up to about 57 inches.
2. From one corner, draw an arc at the neck radius, then a second arc at the outer radius.
3. Cut along both arcs. The straight edges become the center fronts.

Half circle cloak

1. Fold the fabric in half crosswise, cut edge to cut edge. The fold becomes the center back.
2. From the folded corner, draw the neck arc and the outer arc, then cut through both layers.
3. Unfold: you have a half circle with a curved neckline. Our hooded cloak guide walks through this shape step by step.

Full circle cloak

1. Cut one half circle for the back, exactly as above, using the full circle neck radius.
2. Cut two quarter circles for the fronts with the same neck and outer radius. Remember to flip the second one so you get a left and a right.
3. Sew each front to the back along the side edges, right sides together. The two remaining straight edges are the front opening.

Step 4: Finish the Edges and Add a Closure

Hem the fronts and the curved edge, finish the neckline, then sew on a fastening.

1. Stay-stitch the neck curve about 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) from the edge so it does not stretch while you work.
2. Finish the neckline with bias binding, a facing, a collar or a hood. The neckline length is the same for all three shapes, so any hood drafted to N will fit; see how to make a hood for a cloak.
3. Hang the cloak overnight before hemming, especially half and full circles. Parts of the curve run on the bias and can drop, so level the hem afterwards.
4. Hem with a narrow double fold, working in short pinned sections around the curve.
5. Add a closure at the neck corners. Our guide on how to fasten a cloak or cape compares ties, clasps and frog closures.

Which Shape Should You Choose?

Pick the shape by the wearer, the fabric and the look you want, not only by the fabric budget.

• Choose a quarter circle for a small child, a short cape that only reaches the waist, or a quick costume. It is light, but it covers less of the body and can slide backwards.
• Choose a half circle if you are unsure. It fits on one width of standard fabric for most lengths and gives the classic witch or wizard swirl.
• Choose a full circle for a dramatic look in a fabric with good drape, such as a lightweight costume velvet or a soft polyester. Heavy fabric gets very weighty at the neck; the best fabric for a cloak or cape guide compares how common fabrics hang.

Troubleshooting

Safety note: Long, full cloaks swing wide, so keep them away from candles and lit jack-o'-lanterns. For young children, use a closure that pulls apart easily, such as a hook-and-loop tab, instead of ribbons tied around the neck.

Once you've picked a shape, you can sew it with our cloak without a pattern tutorial, skip the needle with the no-sew cloak method, or turn it into a wizard costume with a matching robe. Find more ideas in our costume accessory tutorials.